Niacinamide Percentages: What 10% and 20% Cannot Tell You

The Nalela Journal · Ingredient notes

You pick up one bottle marked 10% niacinamide, then another marked 20%. The second number looks like a shortcut to twice the glow. It is a tempting bit of shelf maths, but skin does not shop by arithmetic alone.

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 used in skincare. DermNet’s overview describes topical uses for acne and the appearance of ageing skin. What a particular bottle will do still depends on the whole formula, how it is used and your skin’s response.

What can it reasonably do?

There is evidence for some specific outcomes, but studies test specific formulas and groups of people. A clinical study of a 2% topical formula examined facial oil production. A separate 12-week controlled study of a 5% moisturizer looked at visible signs of ageing in 50 women. Neither study proves that every 2% or 5% product will perform alike, or that 20% will outperform 10%.

For acne that is painful, widespread or leaving scars, a niacinamide serum should not stand in for a treatment plan. Our salicylic acid versus benzoyl peroxide guide explains two established acne ingredients and why the choice matters.

What the percentage cannot tell you

Look at the full ingredient list and the product directions. Ask what you want the product to add. If your current moisturizer already feels good and contains niacinamide, a separate serum may be optional. If you are considering a stronger formula, introduce it as one change and test it on a small area first. The AAD explains how to test a new skincare product.

How we would choose from this shelf

Start with the outcome and texture you want, then compare the exact formulas. Nalela currently lists a 10% niacinamide and zinc serum from The Ordinary and a 20% niacinamide and zinc serum from Cos De Baha. Those are catalogue descriptions, not a promise that the 20% option is stronger in effect or better for every face. A daily facial moisturizer gives you a different sort of routine option, even though it is currently out of stock.

If a product burns, swells the skin or causes a lasting rash, stop using it and seek advice. If dark marks are the main concern, our gentle dark-mark guide also covers the role of sun protection and realistic expectations.

The Nalela take: buy the formula you can use comfortably for the purpose you actually have. The highest percentage is not a trophy for your bathroom shelf.

Three formulas to compare

The two serums show how differently a niacinamide label can be presented. The moisturizer is a separate comfort step. Check each product’s current price, stock, ingredient list and directions before deciding.

By the Nalela editorial team · Sources checked 17 October 2026. General skincare information, not personal medical advice. Nalela sells the products featured here. Community experiences are linked for perspective and are not evidence of typical results.